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Miso butter corn, Turkish garbanzos
Today was mild enough for me to wear wool socks, but summer’s not over. Tomatoes are going full tilt. The squash in my garden are still blossoming like mad, which means quesadillas are on. Until then, here’s other good stuff in season…
Miso butter corn
This riff on a Momofuku side dish brings out the best in summer corn, onion, and peppers. You could add a poached egg or grilled chicken and make it a whole meal.
Mix together 3 tablespoons white or red miso with 3 tablespoons unsalted butter. Kerrygold, in the silver wrapper, is what I usually use.
Cut the kernels off 4–5 cobs of fresh corn. I prefer the slightly smaller ears that seem to yield less starchy kernels.
Slice up a whole red onion. Saint Joseph Acres (find them at the Thursday market!) has been growing Rossa di Milano onions for a couple years and they’ve become my favorite with their funny flat bottoms and rich flavor.
Seed and slice two large poblano peppers into half inch wide strips. You can substitute any mild summer pepper, including green cayenne peppers which have an outstanding texture.
In a large pan, add a tablespoon of neutral oil (avocado works well) and over medium heat, cook the onion and pepper until the onion is soft and translucent.
Raise the heat to medium high, add the corn, and stir frequently until the corn just barely starts to brown.
Add in the miso butter mixture and stir well, coating all the vegetables.
Season carefully (the miso has lots of salt), top with sliced green onions if you’d like, and eat. Leftovers are great at room temperature.
I raided my garden to find lunch, returning with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, carrots, and a handful of tiny one-bite shishito peppers. Also on hand, a quarter cup of leftover farro from last week, and a bit of leftover miso butter corn (see above).
Fresh vegetables and aged miso make friends in a zippy dressing:
¼ cup avocado oil, or other neutral oil
1 tablespoon white miso
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds
2 teaspoons honey, to balance
1 teaspoon soy sauce
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
Beat together the above ingredients in a large bowl, add whatever veggies you have on hand, and toss to coat. Plate, then sprinkle with sesame seeds and Aleppo pepper.
I first had this dish at a Japanese restaurant and liked it so much that I started gardening in my back yard specifically to grow the mild, wrinkly shishito pepper. Sizzled over high heat, the thin flesh quickly puffs up, then softens. This is one of the best possible beer parings.
Wash and dry thoroughly about 10-15 small shishito peppers. Larger, older peppers are thicker and won’t work as well for this, so pick out the little guys.
Set a large pan over high heat, and bring a tablespoon of neutral, high smoke point oil up to ripping hot. Throw in shishitos and toss them until they wilt and begin to blister Quickly sprinkle with salt and toss once more. Tip them onto a plate, squeeze some fresh lemon juice over the top, and enjoy.
Turkish garbanzos with yogurt and warm oil
This is a leaner, bean-centric take on Turkish eggs, a dish usually slathered in melted butter. Using olive oil instead, and with canned garbanzos, I make this year round.
Whisk together a cup of yogurt with two cloves of minced garlic, a large pinch of salt, and a bit of lemon zest if you have it. Maybe grate in some cucumber for crunch.
Put a quarter cup of good olive oil in a small pan, and heat it on medium low until it shimmers. Drop in a tablespoon of Aleppo pepper, stir to combine, and continue to heat until it just starts to foam. Remove the pan from heat, and set aside.
Drain and rinse a can of garbanzo beans. In a large pan, heat two tablespoons of olive oil on medium high, and add the beans. Give them a quick toss, then let them sit for a few minutes, toss again, and repeat until the beans have a mildly fried texture, about 10 minutes. Add a pinch of salt, a teaspoon of Aleppo pepper, and toss thoroughly to cover all the beans evenly.
Add half the yogurt to a bowl, top with beans, and drizzle half the oil around the outside. Sprinkle with fresh parsley and lemon zest.
Thanks for reading. I hope you’re inspired to buy local and eat something good.